We’re back in Istria, once again for two months. Last time, we drove around the peninsula and visited almost all the major attractions. This time, we’re walking more, cycling, revisiting must-see spots, and uncovering new nuances. From the first days, we found ourselves in perfect company. A family home where Edo grew up and where his father still lives. Gathered here were close relatives spanning three generations and friends. For a special occasion, this yearly tradition brought everyone together.
Our day in the village explains the region's fondness for legumes. Peas and green beans don’t require much care. They’re sown in February, as Istrian springs are quite rainy, and by late May, the harvest is ready (making way for other crops). One day to gather peas from the fields, and another to shell them: first removing the pods from the stems, then freeing the peas themselves — a task we eagerly joined. Interestingly, on a non-industrial scale, peas here are no longer dried; they freeze beautifully, retaining almost all their nutritional value. In the photos, you’ll see all the nonnos and nonnas hard at work together.
Not surprisingly, during this season, family meals revolve around peas. The most popular dish is “rizi-bizi,” a local Istrian dialect adaptation of Italian, literally meaning "rice with peas" (from the Italian riso and piselli).
- 500 g fresh green peas
- 3 garlic cloves
- olive oil
- young onion
- parsley
- starchy rice like Arborio or Carnaroli (or any available variety)
Sauté finely chopped garlic and a small amount of onion in olive oil. Add the peas and stew under a lid on low heat for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and chopped parsley.
This dish is as simple as it gets, even easier than risotto, but just as flavorful. This stewed pea preparation can be enjoyed on its own, mixed with boiled rice (the rizi-bizi), or served with tomato sauce and sausages like salsiccia.
And so the days pass in the nearby villages at the beginning of June — the season of peas. With occasional breaks for family lunches, coffee with pastries, and a glass of chilled Malvasia (which Edo’s father makes in the same house, with us sneaking a peek into the cellar). More to come.
Sauté finely chopped garlic and a small amount of onion in olive oil. Add the peas and stew under a lid on low heat for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and chopped parsley.
This dish is as simple as it gets, even easier than risotto, but just as flavorful. This stewed pea preparation can be enjoyed on its own, mixed with boiled rice (the rizi-bizi), or served with tomato sauce and sausages like salsiccia.
And so the days pass in the nearby villages at the beginning of June — the season of peas. With occasional breaks for family lunches, coffee with pastries, and a glass of chilled Malvasia (which Edo’s father makes in the same house, with us sneaking a peek into the cellar). More to come.
