Asparagus and truffles are symbols of Istria, prominently featured in any Croatian guidebook or regional culinary review. On our first day, Edo invited us to join him in the forest to see how wild asparagus is foraged during its season. Wild asparagus comes in green and purple hues (the more sun it gets, the more purple it becomes). The harvesting season runs from April to May. Wild asparagus has a slightly bitter flavor, which only sweetens after rain. In Istria, it is traditionally prepared in three ways: added to a salad with eggs, baked or fried in a frittata, and cooked into asparagus risotto.
Wild asparagus grows in forests and on hillsides. The long, thin spears stretch up to 1.5 meters above the ground. If not harvested, young shoots begin branching, hardening, and eventually turning into thorns within 7–10 days. The mother plant of wild asparagus is a large thorny bush, and it’s usually around these bushes that edible asparagus is found.
When we set out, we expected to stumble upon asparagus-filled clearings in the forest. Like in a fairytale: walk in, fill your basket with young shoots, and head home to cook. Instead, we wandered the woods for about four hours. Edo explained that last year at this time, the yield was ten times greater. A leap year and a dry April had taken their toll.
The forest is home to plenty of wildlife — boars, deer (with clear signs of their resting spots and hoof prints everywhere), ducks, and quail. We also stumbled across horse enclosures and fields of blooming wild thyme (what a fragrance!).
“It’s not that you’re bad at foraging. If I see you holding little asparagus, it means I didn’t explain how to find it well enough,” Edo quipped. And eventually, we succeeded! We gathered over 2 kg of wild asparagus. While foraging, you can also collect two other edible plants prepared similarly to asparagus: Butcher’s Broom and Black Bryony, locally called ruzka (?) and bluzz (?). In our region, these are known as tamus and gulka. Traditionally used only in folk medicine for their roots and berries, here people eat their young shoots.
To identify which parts of the stems are suitable for cooking, gently bend the stem. The section from the tip to the breaking point (which will snap with a crisp, juicy sound) is edible, while the rest is tough and bitter. From our harvest, we set aside asparagus for salad, frittata, and risotto. All these recipes can also be made with regular asparagus.
Asparagus salad
- a small bunch of asparagus
- 5 eggs
- olive oil
- white wine vinegar
- salt
Boil the eggs. Cut or break the asparagus into 3–4 cm pieces. Heat olive oil in a skillet, add the asparagus, season with salt, and sauté briefly. Add a splash of water and simmer for 5–7 minutes until the asparagus softens. For the dressing, mix equal parts vinegar and olive oil, shaking well until emulsified. Halve the boiled eggs, combine them with the asparagus, and drizzle with the dressing.
Asparagus frittata
Prepare the asparagus as described in the salad recipe, cooking it until soft. Pour beaten eggs over the asparagus. For the first try, skip the milk to better taste the asparagus itself. Later, you can use eggs prepared as for your favorite omelet. Season simply with salt and pepper — nothing extra needed.
Wild asparagus risotto
- a large bunch of asparagus
- 400 g rice for risotto (we used Arborio)
- 250 ml of dry white wine
- olive oil
- salt
- a generous handful of grated Parmesan
This is a slightly unconventional risotto since we use what’s available, breaking some rules along the way.
Boil the asparagus, cut into 3–4 cm pieces, in salted water for about 15 minutes. Do not discard the water — this will be your "asparagus broth" for the risotto.
Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a skillet. Add the rice and stir over high heat for 1–2 minutes until the rice absorbs the oil. Begin adding the asparagus broth in increments, reducing the heat and seasoning with salt. Stir frequently and gently, cooking for 20–25 minutes, adding more broth as needed. About 10 minutes before the end of cooking, add the wine, allowing it to absorb. When the rice is nearly al dente, add the boiled asparagus, remove from heat, and stir in the Parmesan. Cover the pan and let the risotto sit for 2–3 minutes. Serve with a glass of chilled dry white wine.
Coming soon: a story about olive plantations (cultivation, pruning, watering, oil production), foraging wild fennel and radicchio, and much more.
Asparagus salad
- a small bunch of asparagus
- 5 eggs
- olive oil
- white wine vinegar
- salt
Boil the eggs. Cut or break the asparagus into 3–4 cm pieces. Heat olive oil in a skillet, add the asparagus, season with salt, and sauté briefly. Add a splash of water and simmer for 5–7 minutes until the asparagus softens. For the dressing, mix equal parts vinegar and olive oil, shaking well until emulsified. Halve the boiled eggs, combine them with the asparagus, and drizzle with the dressing.
Asparagus frittata
Prepare the asparagus as described in the salad recipe, cooking it until soft. Pour beaten eggs over the asparagus. For the first try, skip the milk to better taste the asparagus itself. Later, you can use eggs prepared as for your favorite omelet. Season simply with salt and pepper — nothing extra needed.
Wild asparagus risotto
- a large bunch of asparagus
- 400 g rice for risotto (we used Arborio)
- 250 ml of dry white wine
- olive oil
- salt
- a generous handful of grated Parmesan
This is a slightly unconventional risotto since we use what’s available, breaking some rules along the way.
Boil the asparagus, cut into 3–4 cm pieces, in salted water for about 15 minutes. Do not discard the water — this will be your "asparagus broth" for the risotto.
Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a skillet. Add the rice and stir over high heat for 1–2 minutes until the rice absorbs the oil. Begin adding the asparagus broth in increments, reducing the heat and seasoning with salt. Stir frequently and gently, cooking for 20–25 minutes, adding more broth as needed. About 10 minutes before the end of cooking, add the wine, allowing it to absorb. When the rice is nearly al dente, add the boiled asparagus, remove from heat, and stir in the Parmesan. Cover the pan and let the risotto sit for 2–3 minutes. Serve with a glass of chilled dry white wine.
Coming soon: a story about olive plantations (cultivation, pruning, watering, oil production), foraging wild fennel and radicchio, and much more.
