In the spring of 2014, a program for a group of Spoon! readers — one that leaned heavily towards knives, chopping boards, pots, and pans — embarked on a journey to one of the oldest regions in France: Gascony. The plan? To explore its iconic small towns, markets, local food, and wine, all while mastering cassoulet: a dish of beans, meat, poultry, and sausages, slow-cooked in the oven and a true symbol of the region.

In Gascony, the title of "the town with the best cassoulet" is fiercely contested. At present, the honor belongs to Mirepoix, a tiny town with a historic central square, wooden houses, and the region’s largest antique market. Here, you’ll find copper cookware, books, stacks of postcards, stamps, records, embroidered tablecloths, and antique glasses. Mirepoix is also home to the Academie du Cassoulet, an institution that knows everything there is to know about this dish.

Cassoulet Way

Cassoulet routes stretch from the sandy Mediterranean beaches to Toulouse, weaving through 5–7 towns. Along the way are notable stops like Narbonne, Carcassonne, Castelnaudary, and the entire area surrounding Toulouse. Surprisingly, the Languedoc-Roussillon region is not often considered a gastronomic hub, despite its abundance of fresh produce, meats, and seafood between the sea, vineyards, and Spanish mountains. Highlights include local sausages, air-dried ham (jambon), fresh sardines and tuna, and shellfish — especially oysters and mussels, which are served fresh at market stalls, often with a glass of white wine. Anchovies, expertly prepared since the Middle Ages, also hold a special place, alongside snails, cheeses, and apple tarts.

Cassoulet is said to pass down the region’s history from generation to generation. The recipe reflects the terroir, with variations every 15–20 kilometers. Castelnaudary favors large white beans, pork skin, braised pork, onion, and a bouquet garni. In Carcassonne, you might find game birds like partridge added to the mix, while Toulouse cassoulet often features lamb or duck along with blood sausage.

There’s no single “correct” recipe, as every chef has their own unique blend of ingredients and techniques. However, to create an authentic cassoulet, you need to follow the essential principles and respect the art of slow cooking.

Cassoulet recipe

Basic ingredients

Three essential components define cassoulet: beans, meat confit, and pork sausages.

• Beans: Large white dry beans are the gold standard. Occasionally, colorful beans are used, but never canned.
• Meat: Goose, duck, or pork, prepared in advance by braising or baking in its own fat. Canned meat is strictly prohibited.
• Sausages: Always pork, made from coarsely chopped meat and sometimes skin. These may or may not include spices, with the addition of blood sausage, garlic, or ham hock being optional.

Cooking Technique

Cassoulet is the epitome of slow cooking. The dish is baked until a crust forms, then stirred and baked again. This process of breaking the crust and rebaking can be repeated up to seven times.

Here in Gascony, they say, “The chef and their oven are like an artist with a canvas.”